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The Paths I walked on... Everest Base Camp Trek

Hello friends! I am Prabhaker, and you can always read a lot more about me on my profile. This is my first time on this forum and hope to write some decent posts here.

I have been fond of trekking and a bit of mountaineering since I was a kid in the early 70s, and have managed to cover some decent miles over the years in many locations in the Himalayas. I would have certainly loved to share the pictures of all those moments here, but alas, I don't have pictorial records of all my treks.

Though I have been doing photography for an equal number of years and do own some very good equipment "Nikon F90X, but owing to weight constraints I refused to carry them with me. Also, since the world has moved from analog to digital, analog equipments like mine have become outdated and not advisable anymore. A couple of years ago I acquired a nice and tough "Point and Shoot" camera "Olympus uTough" and that has been a constant companion on such occasions.

I want to start my interaction with you by showing you the pictures from my "Everest Base Camp" trek that I did in April 2011. I have arranged the pictures in the manner I experienced things and will give you some idea about the paths I walked on. It's not only about rushing to the EBC, but also the beautiful moments shared with my companions and my self.

I hope you will enjoy them and let me know of your reactions.

Note: Though I visited Bhaktpur much later in the day, I have used some pictures much earlier in the presentation to add some interest in the story.

Please do not be offended by any of my words. No intention to hurt any sensibilities is present here. It's just that it is what "makes sense to me" as I write.

Also, please don't be intimidated by my serious looks in my photos. I am actually a reasonably fun person to be around. But none of the the photographers who took my photos ever said the magic words "Say Cheese". So how do you expect me to smile.

TREK 1: EVEREST BASE CAMP

Slide 01a

DAY 1: APRIL 4, 2011 > We Indians believe that everything in life should be started with the blessings of Ganesha. So why shouldn't the EBCT be done in a similar manner.

Shree Ganeshaay Namh!

001 shree ganesh

003 > KATHMANDU, HERE I COME!

View of Kathmandu city from the aircraft window.

002 kathmundu here i come

004 > KATHMANDU! KATHMANDU! KATHMANDU!

And lots of it...

003 kathmundu city a birds eyeview

005 > WELCOMED BY GARURA!

The vahan of Lord Vishnu, Garura sits on top of a tall pillar in Durbar Square, Bhaktpur, Nepal.

004 namaste welcome

006 > THAT'S ME! Posing in front of Narayanhiti Darbar Museum on the famous Durbar Marg in Kathmandu.

005 near narayanhiti darbar museum in kathmandu

007 > TIBETAN PRAYER FLAGS!

Anywhere, Everywhere! Tibetans believe the prayers and mantras will be blown by the wind to spread the good will and compassion into all pervading space.

The five colors symbolize the elements: blue = air; green = water; red = fire; white = space; yellow = earth.

006 prayer flags above in the sky

008 > BUDDHAM SHARNAM GACHHAMI! (I take refuge in the Buddha)

The famous "Bodhnath Stupa" is considered to be "the holiest" outside of Tibet. To me Buddha appears to be keeping a constant watch over all his disciples from here... and as if the pigeon flies right into the arms of Buddha.

007 bouddha temple

009 > I TAKE REFUGE IN THE BUDDHA.

008 buddham sharanam gachhami

010 > SWAYMBHUNATH STUPA

Swayambhunath means "Self-created" and is believed to have been founded over 2000 years ago. Today it is considered to be "the holiest Bhuddhist Shrine" in Kathmandu.

010 swaymbhoonaath 01

011 > LOCKED!

Looking at the locked grills of this enclosure, and the animated gesture of the gentleman in the frame, it appeared to me as if he was asking - Why do the Gods need to be put under lock and key? How will they protect us?

The occupant of this enclosure is present in the next frame...

011 swaymbhoonaath 02

012 > TRI-NETRA (Three Eyed)

I could not find the name of this deity who occupies the enclosure shown in the earlier pic so I decided to call him "Tri-netra - Three Eyes". This deity may be Lord Shiva who is also known as Tri-netra.

Personally, I feel proud of this photo as I shot it thru the small space in the grill with my hand-held compact camera, and that too without using a flash.

012 swaymbhoonaath 03

013 > CHAINED!!!???

My overactive brain asked me a question - Have we actually put our gods behind the locks and chains or is it us who have got so used to these chains and locks that we are no more aware of them, both on our feet and mind?

013 the buddhist prayer

014 > COMPLETE BUDDHIST MANTRA

A plaque displays the complete Buddhist Mantra at Swayambhunath in Sanskrit.

Normally we hear Tibetan Buddhists reciting only "Om Mani Padme Hoom" known as Mani Mantra, but the complete mantra actually carries three distinct portions as displayed on the plaque.

014 prayer when metal is not available

015 > MANI STONE The stones with Buddhist mantra written on them are called "Mani Stones".We came across such stones of different sizes throughout the trek to EBC.

021 the god appear to be chained

016 > PRAYER WHEELS

Just like the Prayer Flags, the Prayer Wheels of all shapes, sizes and material are visible everywhere.

015a prayer wheels at swaymbhunath

017 > PRAYER WHEELS AT WORK

According to the Tibetan Buddhist belief, spinning a prayer wheel has much the same meritorious effect as orally reciting the prayers.

015 prayer wheels another way to pray

018 > OM MANI PADME HOOM!

Praying is a way of life, whether at work, or play.

016 pray even when keeping the shop

019 > COLOR THERAPY

Colors certainly make the rosary and other stuffs like key rings and bracelets come alive.And they also help feed the families of the craftsmen.

017 prayer beads become smart

020 > I WANT THEM ALL!

Beautiful stuff does attract beautiful customers to the shop for sure. Of course, being my wife, she wanted to buy the whole shop, here, there and everywhere. Poor me!

018 i want them all

021 > A BUDDHA FOR EVERYONE!

A Buddha for you and a Buddha for me.

019 buddha everywhere

022 > AND A ROSARY FOR EVERYONE TOO!

Looking at the avalanche of products on sale for the tourists, it felt as if everything today has been hijacked completely by the marketers and that religion is more of a commodity rather than a part of an individual's belief system.

020 and so are the marketers

023 > OFFERINGS - Bowls of water at Bodhnath Stupa.

In ancient India, it was a custom for devoted Buddhists to make offerings to Buddha and his monks, as they traveled. They were offered clean water for drinking and bathing, flowers, incense, light or a lamp, perfume and music. These offerings eventually came to be known as the 8 Auspicious Offerings and symbolize the coming forth of the Buddha’s precious teachings into the world. Similar offerings are used today on Tibetan Buddhist altars as a way to express gratitude and respect for the Buddha.

022 ceremonial bowls

024 > HIDDEN MEANINGS?

Looking at these masks I thought, Does it have some hidden meaning for me?" Did they reflect my unconscious stress before I began my EBC trek, and the water jugs a solution to avoid that?

I recall that staying hydrated en route by drinking lots of water can help avoid AMS and the resulting stress too.

023 and masks

025> LIFE'S COOL

Children having fun at Durbar Square, Bhaktpur

024 people everywhere

026 > BALANCING ACT

Bhaktpur learns to balance between the old and the new.

025 modern overpowering old

027 > PALACE GUARDS

These ferocious gatekeepers continue to protect the palace.

026 stone lions

028 > SCULPTURES

The beautiful wood carvings and sculptures of the Bhaktpur Palace.

027 ancient wood carvings at patan

029 > ALL IN THE FAMILY

Goddess Parvati disguised as Goddess Durga with her sons Ganesh and Kartikeya.

028 godess parvati disguised as durga with her children ganesh and kartikeya

DAY 2: APRIL 5, 2011

030 > AT TREK PERMIT OFFICE

Without the trekking permit our treks cannot begin. From right to left are one of my teammates Raj Gopal, Sunil, our guide and I.

029 no trek begins without a visit to the permit office

031 > LAST MINUTE PURCHASE AT THAMEL MARKET

Thamel, a typical tourists hang-out zone, is the Mecca for tourists in Kathmandu for all mountaineering or trek related purchases. It also boasts of multi-cuisine restaurants and eateries of all shapes and sizes. Like most trekkers we too decide to go for a gear-check and lunch here before our departure to Lukla the next day. The gentleman in the pic is Mr. Shiv Rana, another teammate.

030 last minute purchase at thamel market

DAY 3: APRIL 6, 2011 > KATHMANDU > LUKLA > PHAKDING

At check-in counter of Kathmandu Domestic airport for flight to Lukla. From L > R are Raj Gopal, Prabhaker, Shiva and Ajay. Our fifth friend and trek Guide Sunil shoots our photo. It is very difficult to describe the experiences at the domestic airport, one can only experience it.

032 > AT LUKLA AIRPORT CHECHK-IN

031 amigos at kathmandu domestic airport chek-in counter

033 > WHAT HAVE I GOT INTO?

Ajay seems to be having second thoughts about his commitment for the trek, or do the words "Rum Pum" above his head indicate something else, subtly ;) After Raj, Shiv and I, Ajay is the fourth teammate.

032 ajay having second thoughts - what have i got into

034 > ARE WE GOING TO LUKLA?

After the long-long delays, Raj seems to be asking me the question, "Seriously, are we going to take off for Lukkla now?"

033 time to board agni air after a long wait

035 > EXTENDED TEA BREAK

While our bags get loaded in a leisurely fashion, the air hostess chooses to have an extended tea-break. Of course, there is no hurry as the weather conditions at Lukla still need to improve.

034 while baggage gets loaded, air hostess takes a tea-break

036 > OPEN TO ALL!

As I entered the airplane, I was pleasantly surprised to see the pilot in an open cockpit getting ready to take-off ASAP, in case the weather conditions again changed at Lukla. Except for a a bus and a diesel engine driver in the past, I had never seen a Pilot in action so closely.

035 pleasantly surprised to see an open cockpit as board plane first

037 > FIRST COME, FIRST SERVED!

As I had entered the plane before everyone else, taking advantage of the situation, I chose the first seat on the left, right behind the Pilots so that I could watch them in action, and enjoy my flying experience to Lukla to the fullest. Of course other than the Pilot, you get to see me too :)

036 i occupy the first seat near cockpit

038 > EXCITED? NO, OVER EXCITED!

Just don't think that being an Indian I was behaving like a village bum. In fact, all 14 passengers of the flight were equally excited after seeing the open cockpit of the air-plane and tried to capture as much as they could with their cameras. These gentlemen were from Bulgaria and the youngest member was just 66 and the oldest 69 years. Talking of age, we Indians become old by the time we are 45. So I hardly came across another Indian en route EBC :(

037 other passangers are equally excited

039 > TAKE-OFF! Lukla, here we come!

038 delayed but smooth takeoff to lukla

040 > THE FIRST LOOK!

The first view of the Himalayan peaks in the distance.

039 first view of real himalays from plane window

041 > TURBULENT MOMENTS!

It is not that I was not able to take a good shot but as we got closer to Lukla, the weather condition turned rough. The tiny airplane began to bounce like an Indian roadways bus that travels on an uneven country road. I turned around to check on my fellow passengers and found most with white faces holding the arm-rests as tight as possible.

041 bad weather near lukla creates high turbulance

042 > ATTENTION 100%

The only people who appeared the calmest amongst us were the two Pilots of this small airplane and their focus was absolute 100%. Watching them and the instrument panels closely but unable to understand anything that was on display on the GPS and other instruments, and also noticing the Pilots discussing matters in hushed tones, the situation actually appeared bleak to most of us.

040 pilots are all concentration

043 > LUKLA VILLAGE, THE FIRST GLIMPSE

038 delayed but smooth takeoff to lukla

044 > AND THE LUKLA AIRPORT

045 our first view of lukla airport

045 > THE 3 Ps OF LUKLA - PRAY, PUKE & PEE?

Everybody hurries to get out of the airplane after a safe landing. Whether to pray, puke or pee, only each individual passenger or the almighty knows. I settled for thanking the Gods from the bottom of my heart.

046 everyboy hurries to leave plane

046 > TENZING-HILLARY AIRPORT

In 2008, Lukla airport was rechristened in honor of Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay adn is now known as Tenzing-Hillary Airport.

047 rechristened as tenzing-hillary airport in 2008

047 > WAIT n WATCH!

Now we begin to play the waiting game for our luggage to be released. The porters watching from above wait even more patiently in a hope to get hired.

048 we wait patiently for luggage to arrive

048 > TAKE-OFF!

As we wait, flights continue to take-off and land one after another without any delays, owing to the unpredictable weather condition of the region that can turn bad without any notice. The amount of time we spent at the airport during our return journey, I calculated that on an average each flight took off within four-and-a-half minutes of its landing.

049 owing to unpredictable weather conditions flights takeoff in hurry

049 > And... I was there too :)

050 i was here at lukla airport

050 > OFF TO THE PIT STOP

Having collected our baggage, we rush out of the airport to reach our first pit-stop for a little rest and refueling.

051 collecting our luggage we move to guesthouse for refreshments

051 > THE LUKLA MALL

052 lukla market

052 > TPIT STOP - Sunny Garden

While our luggage is rearranged by our porters, I again go for a smileless "I was there!" shot :)

053 luggage rearrangement at guesthouse

053 > MEET THE TOUGH ONES

By "tough ones" I mean the two Sherpa boys - Phurba and Pasang - who pose along with the two "not-so-tough" ones.

054 first meeting with porters - phurba and pasang

054 > GREAT MANAGEMENT SKILLS

Ajay shows his management skills. While he takes a break, Shiv is busy repacking the day-sack. A great example of camaraderie, or is it delegation of work?

055 ajay manages to relax before trek begins

055 > THE LAUGHING BUDDHA

Shiv doesn't seem to mind doing the job and just gives a warm smile. I personally feel that he can easily play the role of the "Laughing Buddha". What do you say?

056 our buddha_smiles

056 > COMPETITION FROM ABOVE

"Our Buddha" had competition from the Buddha watching from above. This small shrine is right above on the hill behind Sunny Garden. One can trek to this place with some effort if desired.

057 so does buddha watching us from above

057 > MANI (PRAYER) STONE

After our tea-break, we mentally say a small prayer and begin our trek. Mani Stones like these through out the route never let you forget the importance of a small prayer.

058 offering a silent prayer

058 > THE TREK BEGINS

Shiv leads the way. And we follow him. In case you are wondering, the two porters on his either side are not not carrying our stuff. All my stuff was packed in a 60L rucksack, along with a 40L daysack, while Raj had maximum amount of luggage packed in a huge holdall.

059 shiva leads the way

059 > TREKKERS EVERYWHERE!

Owing to the weather condition improving, many flights had arrived and there was a avalanche of Western trekkers suddenly.

060 followed by trekkers

060 > AMUSED

Locals are amused to watch the over-dressed and over-prepared trekkers but are happy to get photographed.

061 while locals watch

061 > ROUTINE

Our EBC trek may be a novelty for us, but life continues to be a routine for all others. Most of the locals, like the three here, choose to ignore us completely.

062 life goes on as usual

062 > BUSY MAN

Sunil, being our guide and trek leader, gets busy making further arrangements through his mobile.

063 sunil gets busy making arrangements thru mobile

063 > CHECKPOINT 01

The first checkpoint just outside the Lukla village as we proceed to EBC.

064 first checkpost while leaving lukla

064 > PATIENCE PAYS

Sunil waits for his turn with our papers ready in his hands.

065 sunil gets ready with permits

065 > FIRST CLOSE VIEW

That's my first close view of snow-clad peaks of the region.

066 my first close view of snowclad peaks

066 > LUKLA EXIT POINT

Just after the checkpoint, I pose in front of Pasang Lahmu Sherpa Memorial gate as we leave Lukla and the trek formally begins.

067 infront of pasang lahmu sherpa memorial gate just before park entrance

067 > ANGRY YOUNG MAN

As I take back my camera from Sunil after posing, I notice this this young Sherpa playing with him mobile. As I click him he gives me the "angry young man" look.

068 as i pose the young sherpa gives me a dirty look

068 > BEYOND THE GATE

I am happy getting out of the gate and begin walking downhill on this beautiful semi-paved path.

069 happy to walk downhill

069 > CHERRY BLOSSOMS

I see "Cherry Blossoms" for the first time in my life.

070 enjoying the cherry_blossoms

070 > NAMASTE! NAMASTE! NAMASTE!

Even though I am an Indian and the words "Namaste!" is a part of my life, still it becomes a bit difficult to get used to it coming out from the mouths of most westerners as you walk. However, within a few hundred meters of trek, I too develop this habit and wish them back... Namaste!

071 saying namste to all enroute

071 > YAK?

No, it's not a Yak. It's not even a Cow. I was told that it is a cross between the two, and are known as Dzopkyos (or Dschok-Pa). And I am absolutely confused as what to call them.

072 come across what look like yaks disguised as cows known as dzokios

072 > NEED... THE MOTHER OF INVENTION!

Had I not seen it with my own I eyes, I would have never believed why these porters carry the "T" shaped wooden staff with them. Of course to use it as a support for their heavy weights, where there are none available. With all that load on the back, I even saw one of the guys peeing standing like that.

074 where sherpas catch a breath

073 > IN HIS ELEMENTS

Raj appears to be in his elements, full of energy and walks with lots of zest.

075 as journey has just started our star raj is energetic

074 > MATCHING PACE

Shiv and Ajay try to match pace with Raj vanishing in the distance, while I move up and down clicking the action around me.

076 followed closely by other amigos

075 > OM MANE PADME HUM

Our first intro with a huge Prayer Wheel besides Mane Stones.

077 our first intro with a huge prayer wheel besides mane stones

076 > EXCITED!

Raj is excited seeing us reach there. Sunil clicks us Raj draws attention to himself. Yes Raj, you are there in the frame! :)

078 we all are happy to be there

077 > USEFUL WHEN ALIVE!

080 a beast of burden today a show piece when dead

078 > USEFUL WHEN DEAD!

A Yak skull over the entrance of the restaurant makes a strange sight to our untrained eyes. But Tibetans believe that a Yak skull over the entrance wards off evil spirits. I wondered, "What helps Yaks ward off the evil that comes near them.

079 yak skull over main entrance looks strange to those who are uninitiated

079 > SILENCE & PEACE Almost hidden from the eyes of travelers.

Unless a trekker is actually conscious of his surroundings, he may miss noticing it completely

081 monestry almost hidden to travellers

080 > UNADULTERATED NATURE... 100% WILD

There is beauty all around us.

082 wild flowers grow abundantly around us

081 > BODHISATTVAS!

When we hatch we want to serve Buddha! Of course not real eggs, but created out of carving rocks. To me it seems to be an interesting way to remember Buddha :)

083 another interesting way to say prayers

082 > HIDE & SEEK!

More of nature peeping from every nook and cranny.

084 nature is wonderful

083 > ONION PLANTS BEFORE THEY BLOOM

085 onion plants look beautiful

084 > RHODODENDRON... In full bloom!

086 so do blooming rhododendron

085 > WALL OF (FIRE)WOOD

087 and well stacked fire wood

086 > PRAYER WHEELS! Lots of them... and larger than me in size too.

088 more prayer wheels on our way

087 > ANOTHER SUN

One Sun is above in the sky and the second one down below on the ground.

089 and more wild flowers

088 > ANOTHER MOUNTAINEER IN THE MAKING

Looking at this kid's cautious expression as he steps down the stairs, I felt that he would one day become a fine mountaineer. Mountaineering is not only about climbing, but returning home safely, which I am sure he will do for himself and the teams he leads.

090 adapt at climbing at young age steps down carefully from home doorway

089 > AND THE PATHS HE WALKS ON... EVERYDAY!

091 just a nice comp

090 > THE JOURNEY CONTINUES

092 our journey continues

091 > BREAK TIME

Sunil wants us to have a break.

093 but sunil wants us to enjoy

092 > TIRED TREKKERS

And what a break it turns out to be...

094 a break

093 > AN UNPLANNED SHOW

With an unplanned show thrown in for our amusement, it's fun to watch this kid...

095 as if by magic a show is revealed 01

094 > MAGICAL MOMENTS

096 a rare treat 02

095 > A TREAT

A treat for the eyes...

097 a rare treat 03

096 > A RARE ONE FOR SURE

098 a rare treat 04

097 > NOT AN EASY ONE TO FORGET

The water from the tap was freezing cold, but this kid was enjoying it as if he was playing with a toy.

099 a rare treat 05

098 > SMILE!

Even Ajay gives a refreshing smile...

101 bringing a smile on all our faces specially ajay

099 > SHOW OVER!

Discussing the show for a few more minutes, it's time to move on.

102 show over time to move on

100 > AS ALWAYS... Shiv leads the way

103 buddha leads way again

101 > AND WE FOLLOW

104 followed by the star

102 > FOLLOWERS??

Not exactly!

105 watching the tough porters we feel frail

103 > HANGING BRIDGE

Of course that was the first hanging bridge that we came across that day, and I did not leave a chance to get clicked besides it.

106 our first hanging bridge on our way

104 > PRAYER FLAGS ON THE BRIDGE

I am not a religiously inclined person, but f you ask me, looking at the flags tied to bridge I thought it was the power of prayer that was holding the bridge together in place.

107 and the prayer flags

105 > BLOSSOM BLOSSOM... CHERRY BLOSSOM

108 some more cherry blossoms

106 > WELCOME!

Raj is greeted with some flowers by some kids as we enter a small village on the way.

109 we are welcomed by local kids with flowers

107 > CLOSE UP

I don't lose a moment for a close-up shot of the kids.

111 sherpa kids want a few rupees in return

108 > FOR THE RECORDS

Sunil and I too go for a "for the records" shot. Raj is the photographer this time.

112 we manage some photos with them

109 > A NEW LEADER EMERGES

After the photo shoot, Sunil chooses to lead the way. Ahead of him is a huge Mani Stone. We have also been promised "lunch" soon by him.

113 sunil leads

110 > HYPNOTIZED

The word "lunch" had a hypnotizing effect on all of us and we follow him like the mice who followed the "Pied Piper".

114 we follow obidiently

111 > THE SHERPA KITCHEN

This was an interesting place to have lunch in the open under the Sun... really a beautiful setting for enjoying our first real meal of the day.

115 as its time for lunch at beautiful sherpa kitchen

112 > HOLY LUNCH!

I have never been so excited to see food ever in my life. My favorite and wholesome - Daal, Bhaat, Tarkaari and some Papad too.

116 daal-bhaat-tarkaari

113 > NO FRIENDSHIP HERE!

Food comes between tow close friends. No more talking.

117 no time for friendship when there is food

114 > INTENSE CONCENTRATION... AND NO TIME TO REMOVE SHADES

I wish I had concentrated so well when I was a student. I would have topped in everything I did :)

118 and no time to chat

115 > AAAAAHH...

The pleasures of food having entered a hungry tummy.

119 aaa haa

116 > SATIATED

Five satisfied souls choose to thank the "Annporna", the cook/owner of the restaurant from the bottom of our filled tummies. Sunil is of course the fifth one behind the camera.

120 we thank the cook who is also the owner of kitchen kitchen

117 > POST LUNCH

An uphill trek begins immediately. We didn't know at that time but almost everyday, thanks to our tormentor Sunil, the hardest part of the trek started after lunch. No matter what but we couldn't convince Sunil to choose a restaurant a a loction when the climb was over.

Kuchh to gadbad hai!!! :confused:

121 post lunch trek begins immediately

118 > TO CLIMB OR NOT TO CLIMB!

It was OK with Sunil, but how do you expect city-slickers like Ajay to do hard climb in a rare atmosphere just after lunch? I discussed killing Sunil that day with my mates but everybody chose to give him some more chance. In any case we couldn't kill him as we had paid money in advance :p

122 trek being uphill sunil is the most hated guy at the moment

119 > FLOATING SPOTS IN FRONT OF THE EYES

Now you can make out how tired we were. There were numerous spots floating and dancing in front of our eyes. Just joking friends, but these are some wild flowers growing abundantly in outside one of the tea-houses. Natural beauty is what helped our tired muscles rejuvenate, always.

123 however beauty around us helps us calm down

120 > COLORS OF LIFE

Of course there were other colors present there too...

124 life is beautiful

121 > ENGROSSED

After the Pilots who flew us to Lukla, this was the only guy we came across who demonstrated the kind of concentration that is needed to complete any task.

125 but this basketweaver doesnt have time

122 > Prayers and Prayer Wheels are as common as the stones found on the way.

126 prayers are a way of life

123 > And so are the prayer flags.

127 and prayer flags

124 > MANI STONES! MANI STONES! MANI STONES!

And lots of them everywhere.

128 and mane stones

125 > AND "I"

129 life is also about saying i was here

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