The Paths I walked on... Everest Base Camp Trek
This entry was posted on April 4, 2015
.Hello friends! I am Prabhaker, and you can always read a lot more about me on my profile. This is my first time on this forum and hope to write some decent posts here.
I have been fond of trekking and a bit of mountaineering since I was a kid in the early 70s, and have managed to cover some decent miles over the years in many locations in the Himalayas. I would have certainly loved to share the pictures of all those moments here, but alas, I don't have pictorial records of all my treks.
Though I have been doing photography for an equal number of years and do own some very good equipment "Nikon F90X, but owing to weight constraints I refused to carry them with me. Also, since the world has moved from analog to digital, analog equipments like mine have become outdated and not advisable anymore. A couple of years ago I acquired a nice and tough "Point and Shoot" camera "Olympus uTough" and that has been a constant companion on such occasions.
I want to start my interaction with you by showing you the pictures from my "Everest Base Camp" trek that I did in April 2011. I have arranged the pictures in the manner I experienced things and will give you some idea about the paths I walked on. It's not only about rushing to the EBC, but also the beautiful moments shared with my companions and my self.
I hope you will enjoy them and let me know of your reactions.
Note: Though I visited Bhaktpur much later in the day, I have used some pictures much earlier in the presentation to add some interest in the story.
Please do not be offended by any of my words. No intention to hurt any sensibilities is present here. It's just that it is what "makes sense to me" as I write.
Also, please don't be intimidated by my serious looks in my photos. I am actually a reasonably fun person to be around. But none of the the photographers who took my photos ever said the magic words "Say Cheese". So how do you expect me to smile.
TREK 1: EVEREST BASE CAMP
DAY 1: APRIL 4, 2011 > We Indians believe that everything in life should be started with the blessings of Ganesha. So why shouldn't the EBCT be done in a similar manner.
Shree Ganeshaay Namh!
003 > KATHMANDU, HERE I COME!
View of Kathmandu city from the aircraft window.
004 > KATHMANDU! KATHMANDU! KATHMANDU!
And lots of it...
005 > WELCOMED BY GARURA!
The vahan of Lord Vishnu, Garura sits on top of a tall pillar in Durbar Square, Bhaktpur, Nepal.
006 > THAT'S ME! Posing in front of Narayanhiti Darbar Museum on the famous Durbar Marg in Kathmandu.
007 > TIBETAN PRAYER FLAGS!
Anywhere, Everywhere! Tibetans believe the prayers and mantras will be blown by the wind to spread the good will and compassion into all pervading space.
The five colors symbolize the elements: blue = air; green = water; red = fire; white = space; yellow = earth.
008 > BUDDHAM SHARNAM GACHHAMI! (I take refuge in the Buddha)
The famous "Bodhnath Stupa" is considered to be "the holiest" outside of Tibet. To me Buddha appears to be keeping a constant watch over all his disciples from here... and as if the pigeon flies right into the arms of Buddha.
009 > I TAKE REFUGE IN THE BUDDHA.
010 > SWAYMBHUNATH STUPA
Swayambhunath means "Self-created" and is believed to have been founded over 2000 years ago. Today it is considered to be "the holiest Bhuddhist Shrine" in Kathmandu.
011 > LOCKED!
Looking at the locked grills of this enclosure, and the animated gesture of the gentleman in the frame, it appeared to me as if he was asking - Why do the Gods need to be put under lock and key? How will they protect us?
The occupant of this enclosure is present in the next frame...
012 > TRI-NETRA (Three Eyed)
I could not find the name of this deity who occupies the enclosure shown in the earlier pic so I decided to call him "Tri-netra - Three Eyes". This deity may be Lord Shiva who is also known as Tri-netra.
Personally, I feel proud of this photo as I shot it thru the small space in the grill with my hand-held compact camera, and that too without using a flash.
013 > CHAINED!!!???
My overactive brain asked me a question - Have we actually put our gods behind the locks and chains or is it us who have got so used to these chains and locks that we are no more aware of them, both on our feet and mind?
014 > COMPLETE BUDDHIST MANTRA
A plaque displays the complete Buddhist Mantra at Swayambhunath in Sanskrit.
Normally we hear Tibetan Buddhists reciting only "Om Mani Padme Hoom" known as Mani Mantra, but the complete mantra actually carries three distinct portions as displayed on the plaque.
015 > MANI STONE The stones with Buddhist mantra written on them are called "Mani Stones".We came across such stones of different sizes throughout the trek to EBC.
016 > PRAYER WHEELS
Just like the Prayer Flags, the Prayer Wheels of all shapes, sizes and material are visible everywhere.
017 > PRAYER WHEELS AT WORK
According to the Tibetan Buddhist belief, spinning a prayer wheel has much the same meritorious effect as orally reciting the prayers.
018 > OM MANI PADME HOOM!
Praying is a way of life, whether at work, or play.
019 > COLOR THERAPY
Colors certainly make the rosary and other stuffs like key rings and bracelets come alive.And they also help feed the families of the craftsmen.
020 > I WANT THEM ALL!
Beautiful stuff does attract beautiful customers to the shop for sure. Of course, being my wife, she wanted to buy the whole shop, here, there and everywhere. Poor me!
021 > A BUDDHA FOR EVERYONE!
A Buddha for you and a Buddha for me.
022 > AND A ROSARY FOR EVERYONE TOO!
Looking at the avalanche of products on sale for the tourists, it felt as if everything today has been hijacked completely by the marketers and that religion is more of a commodity rather than a part of an individual's belief system.
023 > OFFERINGS - Bowls of water at Bodhnath Stupa.
In ancient India, it was a custom for devoted Buddhists to make offerings to Buddha and his monks, as they traveled. They were offered clean water for drinking and bathing, flowers, incense, light or a lamp, perfume and music. These offerings eventually came to be known as the 8 Auspicious Offerings and symbolize the coming forth of the Buddha’s precious teachings into the world. Similar offerings are used today on Tibetan Buddhist altars as a way to express gratitude and respect for the Buddha.
024 > HIDDEN MEANINGS?
Looking at these masks I thought, Does it have some hidden meaning for me?" Did they reflect my unconscious stress before I began my EBC trek, and the water jugs a solution to avoid that?
I recall that staying hydrated en route by drinking lots of water can help avoid AMS and the resulting stress too.
025> LIFE'S COOL
Children having fun at Durbar Square, Bhaktpur
026 > BALANCING ACT
Bhaktpur learns to balance between the old and the new.
027 > PALACE GUARDS
These ferocious gatekeepers continue to protect the palace.
028 > SCULPTURES
The beautiful wood carvings and sculptures of the Bhaktpur Palace.
029 > ALL IN THE FAMILY
Goddess Parvati disguised as Goddess Durga with her sons Ganesh and Kartikeya.
DAY 2: APRIL 5, 2011
030 > AT TREK PERMIT OFFICE
Without the trekking permit our treks cannot begin. From right to left are one of my teammates Raj Gopal, Sunil, our guide and I.
031 > LAST MINUTE PURCHASE AT THAMEL MARKET
Thamel, a typical tourists hang-out zone, is the Mecca for tourists in Kathmandu for all mountaineering or trek related purchases. It also boasts of multi-cuisine restaurants and eateries of all shapes and sizes. Like most trekkers we too decide to go for a gear-check and lunch here before our departure to Lukla the next day. The gentleman in the pic is Mr. Shiv Rana, another teammate.
DAY 3: APRIL 6, 2011 > KATHMANDU > LUKLA > PHAKDING
At check-in counter of Kathmandu Domestic airport for flight to Lukla. From L > R are Raj Gopal, Prabhaker, Shiva and Ajay. Our fifth friend and trek Guide Sunil shoots our photo. It is very difficult to describe the experiences at the domestic airport, one can only experience it.
032 > AT LUKLA AIRPORT CHECHK-IN
033 > WHAT HAVE I GOT INTO?
Ajay seems to be having second thoughts about his commitment for the trek, or do the words "Rum Pum" above his head indicate something else, subtly ;) After Raj, Shiv and I, Ajay is the fourth teammate.
034 > ARE WE GOING TO LUKLA?
After the long-long delays, Raj seems to be asking me the question, "Seriously, are we going to take off for Lukkla now?"
035 > EXTENDED TEA BREAK
While our bags get loaded in a leisurely fashion, the air hostess chooses to have an extended tea-break. Of course, there is no hurry as the weather conditions at Lukla still need to improve.
036 > OPEN TO ALL!
As I entered the airplane, I was pleasantly surprised to see the pilot in an open cockpit getting ready to take-off ASAP, in case the weather conditions again changed at Lukla. Except for a a bus and a diesel engine driver in the past, I had never seen a Pilot in action so closely.
037 > FIRST COME, FIRST SERVED!
As I had entered the plane before everyone else, taking advantage of the situation, I chose the first seat on the left, right behind the Pilots so that I could watch them in action, and enjoy my flying experience to Lukla to the fullest. Of course other than the Pilot, you get to see me too :)
038 > EXCITED? NO, OVER EXCITED!
Just don't think that being an Indian I was behaving like a village bum. In fact, all 14 passengers of the flight were equally excited after seeing the open cockpit of the air-plane and tried to capture as much as they could with their cameras. These gentlemen were from Bulgaria and the youngest member was just 66 and the oldest 69 years. Talking of age, we Indians become old by the time we are 45. So I hardly came across another Indian en route EBC :(
039 > TAKE-OFF! Lukla, here we come!
040 > THE FIRST LOOK!
The first view of the Himalayan peaks in the distance.
041 > TURBULENT MOMENTS!
It is not that I was not able to take a good shot but as we got closer to Lukla, the weather condition turned rough. The tiny airplane began to bounce like an Indian roadways bus that travels on an uneven country road. I turned around to check on my fellow passengers and found most with white faces holding the arm-rests as tight as possible.
042 > ATTENTION 100%
The only people who appeared the calmest amongst us were the two Pilots of this small airplane and their focus was absolute 100%. Watching them and the instrument panels closely but unable to understand anything that was on display on the GPS and other instruments, and also noticing the Pilots discussing matters in hushed tones, the situation actually appeared bleak to most of us.
043 > LUKLA VILLAGE, THE FIRST GLIMPSE
044 > AND THE LUKLA AIRPORT
045 > THE 3 Ps OF LUKLA - PRAY, PUKE & PEE?
Everybody hurries to get out of the airplane after a safe landing. Whether to pray, puke or pee, only each individual passenger or the almighty knows. I settled for thanking the Gods from the bottom of my heart.
046 > TENZING-HILLARY AIRPORT
In 2008, Lukla airport was rechristened in honor of Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay adn is now known as Tenzing-Hillary Airport.
047 > WAIT n WATCH!
Now we begin to play the waiting game for our luggage to be released. The porters watching from above wait even more patiently in a hope to get hired.
048 > TAKE-OFF!
As we wait, flights continue to take-off and land one after another without any delays, owing to the unpredictable weather condition of the region that can turn bad without any notice. The amount of time we spent at the airport during our return journey, I calculated that on an average each flight took off within four-and-a-half minutes of its landing.
049 > And... I was there too :)
050 > OFF TO THE PIT STOP
Having collected our baggage, we rush out of the airport to reach our first pit-stop for a little rest and refueling.
051 > THE LUKLA MALL
052 > TPIT STOP - Sunny Garden
While our luggage is rearranged by our porters, I again go for a smileless "I was there!" shot :)
053 > MEET THE TOUGH ONES
By "tough ones" I mean the two Sherpa boys - Phurba and Pasang - who pose along with the two "not-so-tough" ones.
054 > GREAT MANAGEMENT SKILLS
Ajay shows his management skills. While he takes a break, Shiv is busy repacking the day-sack. A great example of camaraderie, or is it delegation of work?
055 > THE LAUGHING BUDDHA
Shiv doesn't seem to mind doing the job and just gives a warm smile. I personally feel that he can easily play the role of the "Laughing Buddha". What do you say?
056 > COMPETITION FROM ABOVE
"Our Buddha" had competition from the Buddha watching from above. This small shrine is right above on the hill behind Sunny Garden. One can trek to this place with some effort if desired.
057 > MANI (PRAYER) STONE
After our tea-break, we mentally say a small prayer and begin our trek. Mani Stones like these through out the route never let you forget the importance of a small prayer.
058 > THE TREK BEGINS
Shiv leads the way. And we follow him. In case you are wondering, the two porters on his either side are not not carrying our stuff. All my stuff was packed in a 60L rucksack, along with a 40L daysack, while Raj had maximum amount of luggage packed in a huge holdall.
059 > TREKKERS EVERYWHERE!
Owing to the weather condition improving, many flights had arrived and there was a avalanche of Western trekkers suddenly.
060 > AMUSED
Locals are amused to watch the over-dressed and over-prepared trekkers but are happy to get photographed.
061 > ROUTINE
Our EBC trek may be a novelty for us, but life continues to be a routine for all others. Most of the locals, like the three here, choose to ignore us completely.
062 > BUSY MAN
Sunil, being our guide and trek leader, gets busy making further arrangements through his mobile.
063 > CHECKPOINT 01
The first checkpoint just outside the Lukla village as we proceed to EBC.
064 > PATIENCE PAYS
Sunil waits for his turn with our papers ready in his hands.
065 > FIRST CLOSE VIEW
That's my first close view of snow-clad peaks of the region.
066 > LUKLA EXIT POINT
Just after the checkpoint, I pose in front of Pasang Lahmu Sherpa Memorial gate as we leave Lukla and the trek formally begins.
067 > ANGRY YOUNG MAN
As I take back my camera from Sunil after posing, I notice this this young Sherpa playing with him mobile. As I click him he gives me the "angry young man" look.
068 > BEYOND THE GATE
I am happy getting out of the gate and begin walking downhill on this beautiful semi-paved path.
069 > CHERRY BLOSSOMS
I see "Cherry Blossoms" for the first time in my life.
070 > NAMASTE! NAMASTE! NAMASTE!
Even though I am an Indian and the words "Namaste!" is a part of my life, still it becomes a bit difficult to get used to it coming out from the mouths of most westerners as you walk. However, within a few hundred meters of trek, I too develop this habit and wish them back... Namaste!
071 > YAK?
No, it's not a Yak. It's not even a Cow. I was told that it is a cross between the two, and are known as Dzopkyos (or Dschok-Pa). And I am absolutely confused as what to call them.
072 > NEED... THE MOTHER OF INVENTION!
Had I not seen it with my own I eyes, I would have never believed why these porters carry the "T" shaped wooden staff with them. Of course to use it as a support for their heavy weights, where there are none available. With all that load on the back, I even saw one of the guys peeing standing like that.
073 > IN HIS ELEMENTS
Raj appears to be in his elements, full of energy and walks with lots of zest.
074 > MATCHING PACE
Shiv and Ajay try to match pace with Raj vanishing in the distance, while I move up and down clicking the action around me.
075 > OM MANE PADME HUM
Our first intro with a huge Prayer Wheel besides Mane Stones.
076 > EXCITED!
Raj is excited seeing us reach there. Sunil clicks us Raj draws attention to himself. Yes Raj, you are there in the frame! :)
077 > USEFUL WHEN ALIVE!
078 > USEFUL WHEN DEAD!
A Yak skull over the entrance of the restaurant makes a strange sight to our untrained eyes. But Tibetans believe that a Yak skull over the entrance wards off evil spirits. I wondered, "What helps Yaks ward off the evil that comes near them.
079 > SILENCE & PEACE Almost hidden from the eyes of travelers.
Unless a trekker is actually conscious of his surroundings, he may miss noticing it completely
080 > UNADULTERATED NATURE... 100% WILD
There is beauty all around us.
081 > BODHISATTVAS!
When we hatch we want to serve Buddha! Of course not real eggs, but created out of carving rocks. To me it seems to be an interesting way to remember Buddha :)
082 > HIDE & SEEK!
More of nature peeping from every nook and cranny.
083 > ONION PLANTS BEFORE THEY BLOOM
084 > RHODODENDRON... In full bloom!
085 > WALL OF (FIRE)WOOD
086 > PRAYER WHEELS! Lots of them... and larger than me in size too.
087 > ANOTHER SUN
One Sun is above in the sky and the second one down below on the ground.
088 > ANOTHER MOUNTAINEER IN THE MAKING
Looking at this kid's cautious expression as he steps down the stairs, I felt that he would one day become a fine mountaineer. Mountaineering is not only about climbing, but returning home safely, which I am sure he will do for himself and the teams he leads.
089 > AND THE PATHS HE WALKS ON... EVERYDAY!
090 > THE JOURNEY CONTINUES
091 > BREAK TIME
Sunil wants us to have a break.
092 > TIRED TREKKERS
And what a break it turns out to be...
093 > AN UNPLANNED SHOW
With an unplanned show thrown in for our amusement, it's fun to watch this kid...
094 > MAGICAL MOMENTS
095 > A TREAT
A treat for the eyes...
096 > A RARE ONE FOR SURE
097 > NOT AN EASY ONE TO FORGET
The water from the tap was freezing cold, but this kid was enjoying it as if he was playing with a toy.
098 > SMILE!
Even Ajay gives a refreshing smile...
099 > SHOW OVER!
Discussing the show for a few more minutes, it's time to move on.
100 > AS ALWAYS... Shiv leads the way
101 > AND WE FOLLOW
102 > FOLLOWERS??
Not exactly!
103 > HANGING BRIDGE
Of course that was the first hanging bridge that we came across that day, and I did not leave a chance to get clicked besides it.
104 > PRAYER FLAGS ON THE BRIDGE
I am not a religiously inclined person, but f you ask me, looking at the flags tied to bridge I thought it was the power of prayer that was holding the bridge together in place.
105 > BLOSSOM BLOSSOM... CHERRY BLOSSOM
106 > WELCOME!
Raj is greeted with some flowers by some kids as we enter a small village on the way.
107 > CLOSE UP
I don't lose a moment for a close-up shot of the kids.
108 > FOR THE RECORDS
Sunil and I too go for a "for the records" shot. Raj is the photographer this time.
109 > A NEW LEADER EMERGES
After the photo shoot, Sunil chooses to lead the way. Ahead of him is a huge Mani Stone. We have also been promised "lunch" soon by him.
110 > HYPNOTIZED
The word "lunch" had a hypnotizing effect on all of us and we follow him like the mice who followed the "Pied Piper".
111 > THE SHERPA KITCHEN
This was an interesting place to have lunch in the open under the Sun... really a beautiful setting for enjoying our first real meal of the day.
112 > HOLY LUNCH!
I have never been so excited to see food ever in my life. My favorite and wholesome - Daal, Bhaat, Tarkaari and some Papad too.
113 > NO FRIENDSHIP HERE!
Food comes between tow close friends. No more talking.
114 > INTENSE CONCENTRATION... AND NO TIME TO REMOVE SHADES
I wish I had concentrated so well when I was a student. I would have topped in everything I did :)
115 > AAAAAHH...
The pleasures of food having entered a hungry tummy.
116 > SATIATED
Five satisfied souls choose to thank the "Annporna", the cook/owner of the restaurant from the bottom of our filled tummies. Sunil is of course the fifth one behind the camera.
117 > POST LUNCH
An uphill trek begins immediately. We didn't know at that time but almost everyday, thanks to our tormentor Sunil, the hardest part of the trek started after lunch. No matter what but we couldn't convince Sunil to choose a restaurant a a loction when the climb was over.
Kuchh to gadbad hai!!! :confused:
118 > TO CLIMB OR NOT TO CLIMB!
It was OK with Sunil, but how do you expect city-slickers like Ajay to do hard climb in a rare atmosphere just after lunch? I discussed killing Sunil that day with my mates but everybody chose to give him some more chance. In any case we couldn't kill him as we had paid money in advance :p
119 > FLOATING SPOTS IN FRONT OF THE EYES
Now you can make out how tired we were. There were numerous spots floating and dancing in front of our eyes. Just joking friends, but these are some wild flowers growing abundantly in outside one of the tea-houses. Natural beauty is what helped our tired muscles rejuvenate, always.
120 > COLORS OF LIFE
Of course there were other colors present there too...
121 > ENGROSSED
After the Pilots who flew us to Lukla, this was the only guy we came across who demonstrated the kind of concentration that is needed to complete any task.
122 > Prayers and Prayer Wheels are as common as the stones found on the way.
123 > And so are the prayer flags.
124 > MANI STONES! MANI STONES! MANI STONES!
And lots of them everywhere.
125 > AND "I"